1. First a custom-fitted skirt pattern is drafted from the waist/hip measurements. All information for cutting and sewing the skirt are in Sewing Pants and Skirts, the second of the two course books.
2. Then the crotch area is drafted. Vertical and the horizontal measurements are used to ensure that this area will fit. Charts enable students to quickly determine how to draft the area.
Two books support the course. Step-by-step diagrams enable even novices to produce professional garments from their drafted patterns.
3. Finally the pant legs are drafted. The pant patterns are then checked with a muslin.
All fit problems are addressed. Because department stores’ fitting rooms rarely have three-way mirrors many people are unaware that their pants pull in the back crotch area. This is because pant manufacturers often skimp on fabric by cutting the inseams too shallow. The problem is easily corrected as shown in the diagram above on the left.
During the course students learn the sewing skills they need to produce professional skirts and pants at home. These skills are contained in Sewing Pants and Skirts, the second of the two course books. Included are step-by-step instructions for sewing fly zippers, both the left-lapped – used in men’s clothing, and the right-lapped – used in women’s clothing. These are the procedures used in industry by zipper setters who set up to 500 zippers a day. Note in the diagram above on the right that the seam into which the zipper is set is sewn AFTER the zipper is set.
On the right Paulette models her pants. Her pant pattern was the first pattern she had ever drafted.