The cap, with the band of little doggies, gives the finishing touch to the baby boy’s outfit
Every outfit needs a crowning touch. Here is how the baby’s cap was cut and sewn.
The seam allowance is reduced to 1/4 inch around the visor pattern’s curved edge. The visor’s seam allowance that will be sewn into the band is reduced to 3/8 inch.
The visor is prepared
The visor is traced to produce the visor’s stiffening pattern. The seam allowance is cut away from the stiffening pattern’s curved edge. The seam allowance that will be sewn into the band remains 3/8 inch.
The visor’s curved edge is then sewn on a 1/4 inch and the visor turned right side out (Pic A).
The headband is prepared
The headband that will sew around the cap and its medium-weight stiffening are cut the width of the fabric’s printed row of dogs plus 3/8 inch seam allowance on either side.
The printed headband is then machine sewn to its stiffening. Note that the stitching marks the top and bottom of the printed headband. When the headband is turned over the stitching will show where to sew the headband so as to maintain the headband’s width as it is sewn to the cap (Pic B).
Tip: Both rows of stitching MUST be sewn the same direction. Sewing the rows of stitching in opposite directions can cause a twist in the headband.
The headband is sewn to the visor
The headband is sewn to the visor on the 3/8 inch seam allowance. It was first checked to make sure the pattern in the headband was centered on the center of the visor (Pic C).
Sew the headband’s finished edge
The headband is sewn to its facing across the edge that will be at the bottom of the finished cap. The back seam is left open. The band and visor are ready to be sewn to the crown.
Sewing the headband to the crown
The headband is now sewn to the cap’s crown. The headband is sewn to the crown through the stitches that mark the fabric’s printed row of dogs (Pic E).
Note that the headband’s back seam is still open.
Check the work!
Check the work! The band has been sewn to match. The little dog with the red coat is centered on the visor. the row of printed dogs is sewn on a consistent width, made possible by the machine stitching that marks the top and bottom of the printed row of dogs (Pic F).
Finishing the headband
The headband’s back seam is sewn. The headband is then sewn to the crown across the back seam (Pic G).
The headband’s facing is raise stitched to the underlying seam allowance (Pic H).
Raise stitching is sewn 1/16 inch from the seam’s crack. The presser foot’s left prong’s inside edge runs along the crack, causing the needle to sew 1/6 inch from the crack.
Tip: Used extensively in industry, raise-stitching creates a permanent press. It also prevents facings from extending from the finished edge of garments.
The headband’s facing is turned up and pinned (Pic I).
It’s unfinished seam allowance is turned down, over the crown’s seam allowance.
The headband’s facing is then hand stitched to the cap’s crown (Pic J).
The baby boy’s outfit is now finished and ready to be sent to Arizona.
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© Laurel Hoffmann, 2019.