The cap, with the band of little doggies, gives the finishing touch to the baby boy’s outfit 

Cap finishes the baby boy's outfit.

Finished cap, size 1

Every outfit needs a crowning touch. Here is how the baby’s cap was cut and sewn.

The seam allowance is reduced to 1/4 inch around the visor pattern’s curved edge. The visor’s seam allowance that will be sewn into the band is reduced to 3/8 inch. 

A. Heavy stiffening gives the visor support.

The visor is prepared 

The visor is traced to produce the visor’s stiffening pattern. The seam allowance is cut away from the stiffening pattern’s curved edge. The seam allowance that will be sewn into the band remains 3/8 inch.

The visor’s curved edge is then sewn on a 1/4 inch and the visor turned right side out (Pic A).

B. Stitch the band to the stiffening.

The headband is prepared

The headband that will sew around the cap and its medium-weight stiffening are cut the width of the fabric’s printed row of dogs plus 3/8 inch seam allowance on either side.

The printed headband is then machine sewn to its stiffening. Note that the stitching marks the top and bottom of the printed headband. When the headband is turned over the stitching will show where to sew the headband so as to maintain the headband’s width as it is sewn to the cap (Pic B).

Tip: Both rows of stitching MUST be sewn the same direction. Sewing the rows of stitching in opposite directions can cause a twist in the headband.

Band sewn to the visor

C. Sew the band to the visor on a 3/8 inch seam allowance.

The headband is sewn to the visor

The headband is sewn to the visor on the 3/8 inch seam allowance. It was first checked to make sure the pattern in the headband was centered on the center of the visor (Pic C).

Sew the headband’s finished edge
Sewn band.

D. Finish sewing the band.

The headband is sewn to its facing across the edge that will be at the bottom of the finished cap. The back seam is left open. The band and visor are ready to be sewn to the crown.

Sewing the headband to the crown
Sewing the band in the marked sewing lines

E. Sewing the band to the crown. The crown, cut from two plies of fabric, has been turned wrong side out. The pleats are pinned in place, The pins are removed just before the needle would sew over them.

The headband is now sewn to the cap’s crown. The headband is sewn to the crown through the stitches that mark the fabric’s printed row of dogs (Pic E).

Note that the headband’s back seam is still open.

Check the work!
The band is sewn correctly

F. How the cap looks now.

Check the work! The band has been sewn to match. The little dog with the red coat is centered on the visor. the row of printed dogs is sewn on a consistent width, made possible by the machine stitching that marks the top and bottom of the printed row of dogs (Pic F). 

Finishing the headband
Sewing the headband's back seam.

G. Sew the headband’s back seam. The red facing lies under the lined, printed fabric.

The headband’s back seam is sewn. The headband is then sewn to the crown across the back seam (Pic G).

H. Raise stitching the band’s facing to the underlying seam allowances. The headband’s facing looks too wide because the seam allowance on its unfinished edge has not been turned under yet.

The headband’s facing is raise stitched to the underlying seam allowance (Pic H).

Raise stitching is sewn 1/16 inch from the seam’s crack. The presser foot’s left prong’s inside edge runs along the crack, causing the needle to sew 1/6 inch from the crack.

Tip: Used extensively in industry, raise-stitching creates a permanent press. It also prevents facings from extending from the finished edge of garments.

Raise-stitched facing

I. The headband’s raise-stitched facing is turned up.

The headband’s facing is turned up and pinned (Pic I).

It’s unfinished seam allowance is turned down, over the crown’s seam allowance.

Hand stitching

J. The top of the facing, hand stitched to the crown.

The headband’s facing is then hand stitched to the cap’s crown (Pic J).

The baby boy’s outfit is now finished and ready to be sent to Arizona.

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Laurel@CFashionEdu.com

© Laurel Hoffmann, 2019.

4 Comments. Leave new

  • Contemporary Fashion Education
    January 19, 2019 4:38 pm

    The baby’s outfit was made from vintage McCalls’ pattern 5228 that was purchased in 1976.
    I looked on EBay, but the pattern is not there. Writing to a pattern company and asking for a vintage pattern to be reprinted may work. It is highly probable that they have the pattern on file.

    Reply
  • Jeannette Antry
    January 21, 2019 1:53 am

    That hat is so cute it will make for a darling outfit. You are so talented. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
    • Contemporary Fashion Education
      January 24, 2019 12:13 pm

      Thought you might like it :-))

      Reply
    • Contemporary Fashion Education
      February 13, 2019 6:27 pm

      I really enjoyed making the outfit. The mother is Asian, and 2018 was the year of the dog. So the outfit is red, as that is the Asian celebration color, and the shirt and trim on the cap are printed with little dogs. Had to look awhile to find that fabric. I added shoes, socks, and, of course, dark glasses to the outfit when I sent it. The parents are really happy with the present. They sent a very nice thank you with pictures of themselves and their little boy.

      Reply

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