Setting a zipper into a lapped seam
Fringe and pleating are the principal style features of this skirt. (See previous blog post # 87 for information on how the skirt was cut to match.) Lapping the left side seam allows the fringe to add styling to the skirt’s side seam.
Note: The side seam is sewn AFTER the zipper is set. This makes it easier to align the side seam with the zipper set.
Also note: This is high-couture. Custom work such as this can be done in designing departments, but would never be put down a factory line.
The shawl from which this skirt was cut was purchased from Bohemian PINK in Chestnut Hill, Philadelphia.
Preparing the zipper
Begin by sewing narrow grosgrain ribbon over the zipper teeth. Turn the zipper face down. Sew narrow grosgrain ribbon over the side of the zipper that will sew to the left back side seam.
Then turn the zipper face up, sew narrow grosgrain ribbon over the side of the zipper that will sew to the left front side seam (photos A and B).
Hand stitch the zipper into place
Pin the zipper in place (not shown). First back-stitch the right and left side of the zipper into the skirt (Diagram C).
Close the zipper to check the set. Then overcast the zipper tape’s edges to the skirt (Photo D shows the finished zipper set).
Close the side sea
Lap the left right side seam over the left back side seam. Pin in place to match. Sew the lapped seam (Photo E).
Reduce the left side front seam’s lappage
The left-front seam allowance’s lappage was too wide. First the correct width was determined for the lappage. The left-front seam lappage was then trimmed (Photo F).
Next the seam allowance was machine stay stitched 1/2 inch in from the determined edge of the seam allowance. Finally the lengthwise yarns were removed from the seam allowance to allow fringe to act as the seam allowance’s finish (Photo G).
Sew the waistband
Machine sew backing to the self (self is industrial jargon for the principal fabric used in a garment). Machine sew grosgrain ribbon to back the waistband (Photo H).
Hand sew the back of the waistband to the skirt. Then hand sew the front of the waistband to the skirt so that the waistband’s fringe lies down over the front of the skirt. Hand sew hooks and loops to the waistband (Photos I and J).
© Laurel Hoffmann, 2019.
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