Careful drafting, cutting, and sewing produces beautiful clothing
Before cutting the fashion fabric, make sure the pattern fits
On the left Abington Art Center students prepare to check their patterns’ fit with a muslin fitting.
Jessica has finished drafting her skirt pattern. She is tearing her muslin to establish its cross grain before cutting her muslin skirt.
Riana is drafting her skirt pattern to her measurements that were taken in the previous class.
Only after they have corrected their muslin skirts and are sure their skirt patterns fit will they cut their fashion fabrics.
Determine the yardage needed
Once the pattern fits, lay the pattern out on the table to determine how much yardage is needed. This will save money when shopping for the fabric.
Yardage is determined quickly by laying patterns on the fold.
Check if the shears are sharp
Determine if the shears need to be sharpened.
Examine the fabric
Check for flaws, decide which side of the fabric to use as the face (right side). Most fabrics have no wrong or right side.
Determine the direction to cut the fabric. Mark the selvages on the wrong side of the fabric with arrows pointing the direction the finished garment will hang.
Pin the patterns as they will lie in the finished garment. Slide the patterns on the fabric until the matching looks good. Trace the fabric’s designs onto the patterns. Then lay the patterns over the fabric so that the marks lie over the fabric’s designs.
Cut the fashion fabric on the open
Fashion fabric should be cut with the patterns laid on the open.
Cutting on the open ensures that the pattern will fit correctly.
Check that the cross grain is at right angles to the straight grain
Cut from right-to-left (left-to-right if left-handed)
Lay the patterns in tight
Use weights instead of pins
Pin the darts while the
cut pieces are still on the cutting table.
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© Laurel Hoffmann, 2020.
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