Careful drafting, cutting, and sewing produces beautiful clothing

Before cutting the fashion fabric, make sure the pattern fits
Students preparing skirt patterns

Abington Art Center students are preparing to check their skirt patterns. Riana is drafting herr skirt pattern using the directions in Drafting and Fitting Skirts and Pants.  Jessica is tearing her muslin to establish its cross grain. Only after they are sure their skirt patterns fit will they cut the fashion fabric.

On the left Abington Art Center students prepare to check their patterns’ fit with a muslin fitting.

Jessica has finished drafting her skirt pattern. She is tearing her muslin to establish its cross grain before cutting her muslin skirt.

Riana is drafting her skirt pattern to her measurements that were taken in the previous class.

Only after they have corrected their muslin skirts and are sure their skirt patterns fit will they cut their fashion fabrics.

Yardage is determined by laying the patterns on the fold.

Yardage is determined by laying the patterns on the fold.


Determine the yardage needed

Once the pattern fits, lay the pattern out on the table to determine how much yardage is needed. This will save money when shopping for the fabric.

Yardage is determined quickly by laying patterns on the fold.

Testing shears

To determine if one’s shears need to be sharpened, hold scrap fabric in the air. Cut with shears.

Check if the shears are sharp

Determine if the shears need to be sharpened.

Examine the fabric
Mark directional arrows on the wrong side of the fabric.

Mark the selvage on the wrong side of the fabric with arrows the direction the finished garment will hang.

Check for flaws, decide which side of the fabric to use as the face (right side). Most fabrics have no wrong or right side.
Determine the direction to cut the fabric. Mark the selvages on the wrong side of the fabric with arrows pointing the direction  the finished garment will hang.

Determining the matching.

If matching: Pin the patterns as they will be in the finished garment. Slide the patterns on the fabric until the pattern looks good. Trace the fabric’s designs onto the patterns. Use the patterns as markers so as to produce matched clothing.

If matching

Pin the patterns as they will lie in the finished garment. Slide the patterns on the fabric until the matching looks good. Trace the fabric’s designs onto the patterns. Then lay the patterns over the fabric so that the marks lie over the fabric’s designs.

Cut on the open.

Cut all fabric on the open to both ensure that the garment is cut correctly, and to save fabric.

Cut the fashion fabric on the open

Fashion fabric should be cut with the patterns laid on the open.
Cutting on the open ensures that the pattern will fit correctly.

Check that the cross grain is at right angles to the straight grain

Check the cross grain.

Check that the cross grain is at right angles to the straight grain. Use weights instead of pins. Large washers are shown in this diagram.

Cut_right_to_left

Cut from right-to-left to keep the eye the same distance from the shears as you cut.

Cut from right-to-left (left-to-right if left-handed)

Lay the patterns in tight
Use weights instead of pins

cutting

Lay the patterns in tight. Using a grid helps to keep the fabric on grain.

 

Pin the darts while the
cut pieces are still on the cutting table.

Weights used instead of pins.

Pin the darts while the cut pieces are still on the cutting table.

 

Laurel@CFashionEdu.com
215 884 7065

© Laurel Hoffmann, 2020.

1 Comment. Leave new

  • selena gomez
    July 16, 2020 8:50 pm

    Very interesting, Wish to see much more like this. Thanks for sharing your information!

    Reply

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